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Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: An Indian Metropolis Gains Recognition on UNESCO's Creative Cities List.

Aromatic rice dish cooking using the time-honored Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the vessel's cover tightly closed with a paste of flour.

Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.

An International Accolade

Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".

The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.

A City Defined by Food

The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".

With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound love for food.

"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
Melt-in-the-mouth kebabs on a plate
Lucknow is celebrated for its incredibly tender kebabs.

An Imperial Food Tradition

The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.

It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.

But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.

A Diverse Culinary Landscape

In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.

The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert Makkhan Malai
The city presents unique treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a unique airy dessert, when it gets cold.

Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries

Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.

In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.

To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Iconic tea stall serving masala chai
A famous tea stall is celebrated for its milky spiced tea.

Ensuring Legacy Continues

The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.

On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.

NY
Written by

Nicole York

Elena Ashford is a freelance writer and storyteller passionate about uncovering hidden gems in everyday life.

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